The Beauty of Mt. Becher

Last Sunday, on one of those gloriously sunny fall days, we made a spur of the moment decision to climb Mt. Becher. The trailhead, at the end of Forbidden Plateau Rd, is a short drive from Courtenay. The trail begins with a slog up the old ski hill, alternately known as Wood Mountain.

Things seem frozen in time here, and orange chairlifts dangle motionless in the air. Outbuildings with collapsed roofs, and other rusting equipment are evidence of the abandoned ski operation. All that remains of the lodge, which burned to the ground in 2002, is the cement foundation. Despite these remnants, there are stunning views of the Comox Valley, Georgia Strait and the Coast Mountains.

A little beyond the top of the hill, one soon enters Strathcona Provincial Park. Mount Becher and the Forbidden Plateau were added to Strathcona Park in the 1960’s. The trail is rocky and muddy, and climbs steadily through a lovely forest of old growth trees. There are picturesque ponds and marshy spots along the way. We were dismayed to see that ATV’s, dirt bikes, and trucks have been driving well into the park along the trail. Some of the marshy ponds, which I recall as pristine on previous hikes, are now silted up and rutted with muddy tracks. BC Parks is currently taking actions to keep motorized vehicles out of the park.

The trail narrows when one reaches the junction. To the right, one can hike through to the Plateau in the direction of Mt. Washington, enjoying many fine lakes and camping spots along the way. To the left, the trail continues up Mt Becher. Signs that have stood the test of time, carved by Ruth Masters of the Comox District Mountaineering Club, clearly mark the trails.

The rest of the hike up the mountain, albeit steep in places, is enchanting. Trees dwarfed by the alpine elements stand like sentinels between rocky knolls dappled with moss. Blueberry bushes, now tinted shades of red and purple, colour the slopes.

In the spring and summer months flowers such as Davidson’s penstemon, Indian paintbrush and Alaska saxifrage bloom in niches between the rocks. Dry, rocky spots are home to some of Becher’s unusual plants, including Olympic onion and Columbia lewisia. Being late September, we were surprised to find the bright yellow blooms of stonecrop in a warm, sheltered spot.

About a half hour from the summit, a flat clearing and two cement fire pits mark the site of the old Mt Becher cabin. On closer inspection, dates from the late 1930’s are embedded in the cement. The Becher cabin, used by skiers and hikers, stood for 50 years. Mt Becher was the first ski hill on Vancouver Island, long before Mt Washington.

The Becher summit is a great place to lie in the sun and take in great views on all sides. To the north, one can look across the plateau to the rounded peaks of Indianhead Mountain and Mt Drabble, and all the way to Mt Washington. The awe-inspiring Comox Glacier dominates the view to the west. To the east, one has panoramic views of the Comox Valley, and north to Campbell River.

Clear cuts, extending right up to the park boundary in places, are also visible on all sides. It is a reminder of how vulnerable our parks are, and the importance of protecting these precious wilderness corridors.

We took our time eating lunch at the summit, and enjoying the late-September sun. Whiskey Jacks, with their whistling call notes, moved in aggressively to try and steal our sandwiches. While waving these birds away, I noticed a flash of blue on a treetop below us. “That’s a Mountain Bluebird!” I said, as I reached for my binoculars. These birds are quite rare in our area, but are occasionally seen migrating through. Seeing the small flock was a magical moment.

Though the majority of people access Strathcona Park via Mt Washington, the southern Wood Mountain/Forbidden Plateau access is still a well-used route. Mt. Becher is a popular day hike, especially with locals. The trail is rugged and muddy in places, but the fine views make it all worthwhile.

The return trip from the parking lot to the Mt Becher summit is about nine kilometres. To allow time for photography, and a leisurely lunch break at the top, budget 5-6 hours return. To get to the trailhead, take the Piercy Rd exit (exit 127) off of Highway 19, then turn right on Forbidden Plateau Rd. and follow the road to the end. The last section is gravel, but it is in good condition.

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